Mycorrhizae For Sale – The Most Helpful Soil Inoculant

Mycorrhizae For Sale

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A common problem in many gardens is that plants have a difficult time:

  • Getting certain nutrients out of the soil
  • Finding enough water
  • Protecting themselves from soil-borne predators

That’s why they started partnering – 100s of millions of years ago – with very special fungi called mycorrhizal fungi.

If I had to narrow it down to the single most important microorganism species for your garden, it would be a mycorrhizal fungus called Glomus intraradices.

That’s because it partners up with over 90% of plant species and plays a huge role in the health of our plants and soil.

There is no other microorganism that works so closely with plants to bring them nutrients and water and to protect them from root feeding diseases.

I have mycorrhizae for sale. Actually, to be more accurate, ‘mycorrhizae’ actually refers to the relationship between the fungi and the root (‘myco’ means fungi and ‘rhiza’ means root).

So you can’t buy mycorrhizae, but you can buy mycorrhizal fungi, and it’s often very useful to do so.

What Mycorrhizal Fungi Do

Yellowfoot Mycorrhizal Fungi
Some mycorrhizal fungi are edible like this Yellowfoot.

Mycorrhizal fungi wrap around the roots (and often go inside the roots) of the plants in your garden and then grow out through the soil in every direction, effectively extending the root system of those plants by hundreds of times.

They get nutrients out of the soil that plants have a hard time getting themselves, especially phosphorus (which is good because deficient phosphorus is a common reason why our plants aren’t optimally healthy) and also many others.

They also hold calcium in the soil – you can go apply a whole bunch of lime, but if you don’t have fungi in the soil, a lot of that lime can leach out very quickly.

Mycorrhizal fungi also bring water to plants and protect plant roots from predators, and even invite other beneficial microbes into the root area by feeding them directly.

They even connect most of your plants together, giving those plants the ability to share nutrients and other compounds with each other!

The reason they do all this is because the plants give them food in return.

Some plants will give over 50% of the carbohydrates (which they produce through photosynthesis) to these fungi.

This mycorrhizal symbiosis is bartering that’s been going on for millions of years and it’s one of the most important foundations of all life on earth and of the health of your garden.

By the way, be sure to read the comparison to both compost tea and SCD/EM on the right side of the page.

How To Make Your Own Mycorrhizal Inoculant

When possible, I really like to teach you guys how to make these kinds of things for yourself.

And it actually is possible to grow your own mycorrhizal inoculant, an inoculant being a culture of microorganisms that you use to establish them in your garden.

But it’s no simple task and I don’t see it being worth the effort for home gardeners (other than for fun because it would be cool if you could learn to do it properly).

It takes a few months, but if you’re interested, here’s a nice little production guide from Rodale.

How Mycorrhizal Inoculant Is Made For Sale

What they have to do to produce the fungi is grow acres and acres of plants inoculated with mycorrhizal fungi on the roots and then pull up the roots, harvest the fungi, get the spores (which are kind of like the microscopic seeds of fungi), clean them, protect them with a carrier, and – well, it’s a very intensive and delicate process.

Some companies are now culturing the fungi in a lab. I have no problem with that in theory, but my understanding is that so far the quality is not there, so I stick with the tried and true method of using inoculants that were grown on plants.

So, you can take these mycorrhizal products and apply them directly to your seed and to the roots of your plants when you plant them, and the relationship should begin to form with a few days.

I’ve seen incredible results when seeding new lawns and planting new gardens with mycorrhizal fungi products.

Forward-thinking landscapers and farmers are onto using it now. Even people who grow world record giant pumpkins are using it, too.

Who Needs This The Most?

Soil that’s been tilled, compacted, water logged or treated with pesticides will often be severely deficient in these important fungi, so that’s when it’s our job to bring them back in.

Same goes if you’ve brought in topsoil, potting soil or even compost (they don’t generally exist in compost because they need a plant partner to grow).

That’s why I recommend this for almost everyone, as most of us have at least one of these conditions, and because getting these beneficial fungi back into partnership with plant roots can have pretty dramatic impact on plant growth.

If you’re working in more of a natural ecosystem, like on the edge of a forest or natural grassland, you can probably skip this one, although you’ll still want it for starting seeds or planting in containers.

Endomycorrhizal Vs Ectomycorrhizal Fungi

There are two main categories of mycorrhizal fungi: Mycorrhizal PlantsSource: Mycorrhizal Applications – manufacturer of quality mycorrhizal inoculants.

  • Endomycorrhizal fungi (also called arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi or am fungi) partner up with well over 90% of plant species – most plants. G. Intraradices is included here, along with a few other less important species.
  • Ectomycorrhizal fungi work with less than 5% of plants, so they’re not usually needed in a home food garden, although it doesn’t hurt to have them if you happen to get an inoculant that includes them, and they do associate with some trees including pine, fir, Douglas fir, spruce, hemlock, oak, birch, beech, hickory, alder, willow.

I carry a mycorrhizal inoculum that has just the endomycorrhizal fungi, which is the one you need if you’re growing food.

I also carry an inoculum that has a mix of both the endo and the ecto, which you may need if you’re planting a mix of deciduous and coniferous trees and shrubs.

How To Choose A Quality Mycorrhizal Inoculant

Unfortunately, most inoculants aren’t great, but there are a few good ones.

I’ve spent more time searching for this product than any other, and I was lucky enough to find an excellent manufacturer.

I actually worked with them to create a special size just for home gardeners, as they were focusing on creating really high quality inoculants for landscapers and farmers.

I’ve learned a lot along the way, so I can share a couple of tips on what you want to look for when buying a mycorrhizal inoculant.

The number of mycorrhizal spores is part of the picture. Some products have less than 1000 spores per pound. Some have hundreds of thousands. Spore count alone isn’t all that relevant, though – you need to compare it to price.

For example, if a product has twice as many spores as another but costs four times as much, then all else being equal, it’s not a good deal.

But spores per pound is not the only relevant part. The quality of the manufacturing process and the health of the spores is just as important.

If most of your spores are destroyed or if they’re being packed in an inappropriate carrier, you lose a lot of benefits. I would rather have a lower spore count from a quality manufacturer.

This particular product has about 35000 spores per pound, which is way more than the cheap products on the market, but not as high as some others. But where these guys shine is with quality – they’re well known for producing a high quality inoculant.

How to tell if a product is of high quality? That’s a hard one. I know just enough about the science of mycorrhizal fungi that I can talk to the manufacturer and tell by how they answer my questions if they know their stuff and if they’re concerned about quality.

But other than that, it’s seeing what other people are saying about the mycorrhizal product and looking at the track record of the manufacturer. It takes some hunting.

Some manufacturers count ‘propagules’ instead of ‘spores.’ Propagules can include root fragments and other inert materials, so the spore count might actually be much lower. When buying a product, make sure you figure out how many actual spores are in it.

And not just spores, but how many G. intraradices spores, or at least endo spores. Endo/ecto blends are going to have way more spores because the ecto are so much smaller and more plentiful, so that makes it looks like they’re a much higher value, but it’s really endo you want to pay attention to in order to compare apples to apples.

A point of controversy in the mycorrhizal inoculant world is diversity of species. Some people contend that G. Intraradices is really the only endomycorrhizal species you need, while others claim that a diversity of several endo species is better because each of them will do better in certain conditions with certain plants.

The latter has always made sense to me, because more diversity is usually better in nature, but after a lot of reading into this, I believe it’s not as important as you might think.

G. Intraradices is the important one. If a product has a few other species, as mine does, that’s probably a good thing, but not too big of a deal.

When it comes to ectomycorrhizal fungi, if a product has it, there are usually a handful of species, and it is a good thing in that case because they’re specialists.

One more thing. In my opinion, it’s usually best not to buy mycorrhizae for sale with other microbes in it such as bacteria. It’s fashionable in the mycorrhizal fungi products world to add them in, but they probably aren’t helping all that much, and they may be detrimental.

Also, in my opinion, don’t buy mycorrhizal inoculants with trichoderma in them. It’s all the rage to include trichoderma fungi these days, and perhaps there are some benefits, but there’s also some evidence that they can interfere with the mycorrhizal fungi.

I’m not going to get into that here because I’ve already been rather long-winded, but I’m staying away from trichoderma mixed with myco until I see more evidence.

Mycorrhizal Applications – How To Use Mycorrhizal Fungi

The relationship occurs at the roots, so that’s where you need to do the mycorrhizal inoculation – there’s no benefit spraying it onto plant leaves.

That means when you’re sowing seed, sprinkle a little fungi on them first. I’ve often just finished soaking my seed in kelp or sea minerals, and so the fungi sticks to it nicely, but that’s not necessary – just a bonus.

When you’re planting, just rub a little bit of inoculant onto the root ball of the plant, 1 teaspoon for small plants and 2-3 teaspoons for bigger plants.

If you have an existing landscape with reasonably porous soil (i.e. not heavily compacted) and you’re using a powder inoculant such as my mycorrhizal fungi for sale here (rather than a granular product), you can mix it in water and spray it onto the soil and then water it in and some of it will work it’s way down to the roots.

How Much Do You Need?

There’s approximately 300ml in 1/2 pound of inoculant.

When I’m planting small plants, I don’t measure. I just rub some powder onto 1 side of the root ball, less than 1/4 teaspoon for little ‘starts’ such as tomato plants, and more like 1/2 teaspoon for a 1-3 gallon pot. A little is all that’s needed.

If you’re planting seedlings, that 1/2 pound can do up to 800 of them if you mix it in water and spray the roots, or just very lightly dip the roots into the powder. For trees, 1/2 pound will do about 30 of them – that’s 2 teaspoons per tree.

Use 300ml (1/2 pound) per 1/3 acre worth of seed if you’re going to be mixing it in with your seed before sowing.

That means if you’re seeding a typical home lawn, 1/2 pound will be more than plenty, as 1.5 Tablespoons per 1000 square feet is all you need to mix with the seed. If you’re seeding vegetables, 1/2 pound will be even more than more than plenty – they just need an incredibly light dusting.

For watering into existing lawns and gardens, we need to apply a lot more. It’s optimal to use at least 300ml (1/2 pound) per 1000 square feet if you’re going to be watering it into an existing lawn or garden, but I’ve discussed this with the manufacturer, and they said that 300 ml (1/2 pound) can do up to 4000 square feet. The fungi will take longer to get established, but it should do so in time.

The dilution with water is 1 Tbsp/gallon of water, 20 gallons of water for each 300ml (1/2 pound) of inoculant.

When doing this, I’ll usually mix it with liquid seaweed. Irrigate right after application in order to move it down into the root zone.

If the soil isn’t porous, you can instead dig a few small holes around each plant and tuck a teaspoon of powder down into each hole.

Free $25 Bonus When You Buy Today

When you buy this fungi, you get enrolled into my online Inoculants course.

Mycorrhizal fungi is so easy to use that I actually only have a couple of videos on it in there, but I have other videos on topics such as how to make your own bacteria-based inoculant and discussions on a few other inoculants.

The course includes 11 videos totaling about 40 minutes.

Important Info

I go into more detail about ordering on the main page, but here are a few quick things I’d like to mention:

  • If you have a question about this product, leave it in the comment section at the bottom of of this page and I'll try to respond within a few hours.
  • Shipping is $10 if your order is $25 or less, $15 if your order is $25-$50, $20 if your order is $50-$100, and $25 if your order is more than $100 (AK and HI add $10)
  • Dry fertilizers and compost tea brewers ship for free, separately with USPS instead of UPS, so they will arrive on their own maybe a day or 2 apart from my other products.
  • I ship in the U.S. only. Products ordered by 2pm will ship same day. After that they ship next day. Weekend orders ship Monday.
  • All of my products have a 1 year 100% money-back guarantee.
  • With every order, I send $1 to Organics 4 Orphans and other similar organizations. O4O is working with the world’s poor to help them grow organic, highly nutritious, highly medicinal food for themselves, and then use the surplus food to generate income for themselves as well as feeding the orphans in their communities. My hope this year is to again send $1500US, which is enough to start projects in 25 new communities!

Order Now

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Business Seals In summary, this inoculant:

  • Helps plants take up phosphorus, nitrogen and many other nutrients, plus water, and also protects plant roots from soil-borne pests.
  • Is probably needed in soils that have previously been tilled, compacted, water-logged, sprayed with pesticides, or left without plant cover.
  • Is organic, OMRI-Listed and non-GMO, and 1/2 pound goes a long way.

As a free bonus when you order today, I’ll also enroll you in my Inoculants course.

Just choose your size and click ‘Add To Cart’ up above!

Need A Bigger Amount?

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If you’re a farmer or professional gardener/landscaper who needs bigger quantities, here they are.

Shipping is included in these prices.

71 Comments

  1. Bear on March 22, 2014 at 7:37 pm

    What is the lifetime of the Bio-Organics Endomycorrhizal fungi (in the container you ship it in)? I mean, can I keep it a year? Two years? And can I store it in an outdoor shed? I don’t want to kill the little things. 🙂

    • Phil on March 22, 2014 at 9:36 pm

      The shelf life is a minimum of 2 years if stored at room temperature – best to keep them inside.

  2. Eve on April 9, 2014 at 11:47 am

    How long is the expiration date?

    • Phil on April 9, 2014 at 3:52 pm

      Minimum 2 years if stored at room temperature.

  3. Neil on May 13, 2014 at 6:00 am

    It costs $15 to ship a mere 8 ounces of mycorrhizal inoculant? That seems pretty excessive to me. The real shipping costs can’t possibly be anywhere near $15 to ship 8 ounces of a powder. Can you lower the shipping costs?

    • Phil on May 13, 2014 at 12:43 pm

      I know, it seems excessive to me, too. But for real, I get charged anywhere from $12-$15 to ship this via UPS, and I actually get decent discounts from them. Plus I have to pay my guys just over $2 to ship it. So ya, I usually lose money on shipping. What most of my customers do is also order a couple of additional products and then the $15 shipping makes more sense.

      • Freedom321 on April 11, 2015 at 3:48 pm

        Have you checked out using the US Postal Service? I believe they now offer tracking, and may be a lot cheaper.

        • Phil on April 14, 2015 at 12:49 pm

          Yes, I’ve looked into that. In the end, it wasn’t less expensive, but I’ll continue to look for ways to lower costs – expensive shipping hurts me too.

  4. Bear on May 13, 2014 at 12:53 pm

    I, too, had wondered about the high costs of shipping, so I appreciate the frank discussion here. It is refreshing to deal with someone who is open about costs on “the other end” of the shipping deal. Thanks.

  5. Mary on July 27, 2014 at 10:44 pm

    Are the products, combinations, and applications the same for a perennial flower garden. I don’t have any food plants other than some herbs. Thanks.

    • Phil on July 28, 2014 at 11:14 am

      Yes, it’s all the same for an ornamental/flower garden.

  6. Practical Gardener on August 10, 2014 at 11:52 pm

    Why dont you ship in the flat rate boxes by usps?

    • Phil on August 11, 2014 at 5:10 pm

      I have a fulfillment company do my shipping for me, and they don’t offer it as an option.

  7. Zida on February 28, 2015 at 5:18 pm

    Hi, is it possible to ship to Zagreb, Croatia… and how much would shipping cost. Thanks for the reply. Cheers!

    • Phil on March 1, 2015 at 6:53 pm

      Sorry Zida, I can’t ship outside of the U.S.

  8. alex on March 26, 2015 at 11:45 pm

    What is the spore count per gram of your product?

    • Phil on March 27, 2015 at 1:56 am

      77 spores per gram. It’s not the highest spore count in the industry, but we’ve had professionals, garden centers and product formulators who have moved away from this product to a product with a higher spore count, only to return later because they weren’t getting the results anymore. This is when I started to learn that spore count per weight isn’t a great comparison tool, and that mycorrhizal products are really hard to compare on paper because it’s all about quality. Challenging for a guy like me who likes to make spreadsheets and figure things out by the numbers.

  9. alex on March 26, 2015 at 11:49 pm

    What is the spore count per gram of your product?

  10. Dace on April 3, 2015 at 12:16 am

    is this something that you would apply annually to an existing yard or would one application be enough for several years?

    • Phil on April 3, 2015 at 12:06 pm

      One application is enough as long as you’re not using chemicals or doing much tilling.

  11. Freedom321 on April 11, 2015 at 3:51 pm

    So to use on grass in a yard that is heavy clay, would I need to dig holes every few feet? Or would you still suggest spraying it on, and watering it in well?

    • Phil on April 14, 2015 at 12:50 pm

      For heavy clay, I would first rent a core aerator to aerate the lawn (or hire a gardener to do it), and then apply the inoculant immediately after. That will allow it to get down into the root zone. I would also use fertilizers and a light topdressing of good compost at the same time, when you have this opportunity to get it down into the soil.

      • Freedom321 on April 15, 2015 at 4:39 pm

        Thank you!

  12. Freedom321 on April 11, 2015 at 4:03 pm

    So I imagine that I still want to use bean and pea inoculant, in addition to this?

    • Phil on April 14, 2015 at 12:51 pm

      Yes, that’s right.

  13. vicci on April 12, 2015 at 4:45 pm

    I just read an article that said to use a legume inoculant when planting peas and beans. Is that what this product is, or is it something different?

    • Phil on April 14, 2015 at 12:06 am

      This product is different. Legumes do associate with mycorrhizal fungi and benefit from it, but yes, they benefit from a legume inoculant as well.

  14. Organic Gardener on July 21, 2015 at 8:54 pm

    Hi there! I have a cabin in Wyoming that my family and I visit once a year for two weeks in the summer, typically the end of July. I have two questions for you, 1) how long would shipping take to reach Wyoming (as we are here for only 2 weeks)? 2) will the endo/ectomycorrizhal fungi last through the harsh winter months?Thanks for your help!

    • Phil on July 25, 2015 at 6:21 pm

      Darn, I’m so sorry for missing this earlier – my sincere apologies. If you order this weekend, my best bet is that it will arrive on Thursday to Wyoming.Yes, as long as you don’t remove all the plant matter and don’t till the soil, the fungi go dormant in the winter and will be there to stay.

  15. Biker Dude on August 6, 2015 at 8:35 pm

    How, or where, can I get ahold of Ectomycorrhizal Fungi? I have several oaks and evergreens that I would like to add a little boost to. The Texas weather has them not looking too healthy and I understand that ectomycorrhizal fungi helps with water use and general health of the tree. Am I correct in saying that the ecto fungi will make my trees a little healthier? We water sufficiently but would like to give them a boost. Thanks for your help.

    • Phil on August 7, 2015 at 11:49 am

      Of course it’s not a magic bullet, but yes, mycorrhizal fungi is tremendously important for tree health and can make a big difference. I sell Endo up above as ‘Endo-Ecto Mycorrhizal Fungi’. Ecto almost always comes with Endo, because Endo associates with over 90% of plants, including most of those trees.

      • heba on August 21, 2015 at 2:51 pm

        can you send the product to west bank palestine

        • Phil on August 24, 2015 at 7:54 pm

          No, I’m sorry, I only ship in the U.S.

  16. nusata dozo on October 11, 2015 at 3:00 pm

    can you mention some names of endomycorrhizae with their scientific names.

    • Phil on October 12, 2015 at 12:09 pm

      The endomycorrhizal species are Glomus aggregatum, G. etunicatum, G. clarum, G. deserticola, G. intraradices, G. monosporus, G. mosseae, Gigaspora margarita, and Paraglomus brasilianum.The ectomycorrhizal species are Lacarria laccata, Pisolithus tinctorius, Rhizopogon amylpogon, R. fulvigleba, R. rubescens, R. villosuli, and Scleroderma cepa, S. citrinum.

  17. High tunnel Berry Grower on October 28, 2015 at 1:45 am

    PhilI am pretty sure I have salt toxicity problem in a high tunnel with strawberries. I know that this product cant fix my problem but from what I have read it could help the plants tolerate the problem. Can you speak to that?

    • Phil on November 5, 2015 at 7:11 pm

      I asked Graham Phillips, who produces my mycorrhizal product, for his advice. He in turn asked Don Chapman, a pioneer in the mycorrhizal world and the original creator of this product. Don says:”Well, there’s been quite a bit of mycorrhizal research done on toxic levels of salt. It can definitely give plants better resistance to salty soil. The fellow I first worked with did some experiments growing tomatoes in pure beach sand – very salty stuff.My advice is for this grower to drench a section of his plants with the powdered endomycorrhizal inoculant, mark it, and observe. If the plants are already stressed, their roots will be exuding a “help” signal that should trigger a fairly immediate and strong response from the beneficial fungi. I’d expect to begin seeing positive results in 4-6 weeks time.To test the inoculant for strawberries, I’d use ½ cup per gallon and drench 25 sq. ft. per gallon. This is a little heavier application than usual, but we want to be sure that each plant receives at least a few spores of each type to determine how well the procedure works. After the drench, spray water lightly on the plants to transport all the spores down to the root zones.Later applications can experiment with more dilute strengths if the grower has a large area to cover. The fungi will spread from one plant to its neighbors in time.”

  18. Wan on December 16, 2015 at 9:19 pm

    How much do you recommend per pound of soilless potting mix containing equal amounts of sphagnum peat moss, perlite, coir, and vermiculite. Also, I plan to use the potting mix for indoor vegetable growing (under grow lights) and wonder if I can reuse the potting mix or need to start with new mix after every harvest. Thanks for your help.

    • Phil on December 20, 2015 at 7:21 pm

      The recommendation is 1lb of fungi per cubic yard of potting mix (or 2 Tbsp per cubic foot. Personally, I instead inoculate my seeds and plant roots directly, as that uses much less product.As for reusing potting mix, yes you can if it’s healthy and disease-free. But if you grow something that sends its roots all throughout the mix, you may find the mix to be largely unusable and to some extent lower in nutrients, but how much, I’m not sure.

      • TruthStoryLies on January 18, 2016 at 4:05 pm

        I want to try and grow a mycorrhizal mushroom (truffles), will the organisms within the bio ag compete with the mushroom preventing it’s spores from growing? Thank you

        • Phil on January 22, 2016 at 11:36 pm

          No, if you use as directed (like at least a 1:250 ratio of bio ag to water), you will be fine.

  19. Alex Hedgepath on February 12, 2016 at 9:20 pm

    Hey Phil,I’ve planted bare root pine seedlings and establishment is more than critical because soil erosion is the goal. I need root growth fast. If all 184 trees are already planted, is too late to apply ectomycorrhizae? How effective is the powder through a sprayer? Any information would be helpful. Thanks!(this is the product i’m referring to)

    • Phil on March 7, 2016 at 9:27 pm

      Hi Alex, you’re still fine to spray the ecto. A micronized product like this one goes beautifully through a sprayer, and since the trees were just recently planted, the water should quickly make its way down to the roots. Nothing to worry about 🙂

  20. SVfarmer on March 25, 2016 at 11:51 am

    I am planting 200 bare root grape vines. Ho much of the endomycorrhizal innoculum would you recommend per plant?

    • Phil on March 25, 2016 at 1:25 pm

      1/2 pound will be plenty. That’s about 1/3 teaspoon per plant. You could use even less than that but it just becomes an issue of how to work with such tiny amounts, the best answer often being to mix the powder in water and spray all of the roots at once, which is certainly faster. If you do that, just make sure you use a sprayer that hasn’t had chemicals in it, and dissolve the powder really well before spraying. The other option, which for some reason I do more often, is to dust the wet roots with the dry powder by hand, doing a bunch of them at once. Hope that helps.

  21. Danielle Hoffman on May 1, 2016 at 1:17 pm

    You put a chart showing that Orchids do not respond to this type of mycorrhizal fungus. Do you know what type do they grow in?

    • Phil on May 2, 2016 at 2:50 pm

      Various species of basidiomycetes – I don’t think any of them are available to purchase as an inoculant.

  22. CHARLES BOONE on May 17, 2016 at 10:56 pm

    hHw do i apply micro. fungi to lawn what mixture (teaspoons per gallon) in water to be dispensed by way of 15 gallon tank mounted on golf cart.Should water be warm?Do i need to kill cholrine in water ?How much mixture per 1/2 acre?Morning or evening? Most Sincerely Charles Boone

    • Phil on May 20, 2016 at 3:07 pm

      Hi Charles, the manufacturer recommends 1/2 pound of inoculant per 1000 square feet as being optimal, but I asked them and they told me that for half an acre of existing lawn, the three pound jar should be sufficient – the more you use, the faster the spores will spread, but ultimately it should get to the same point.As for the amount of water, it doesn’t matter – just use whatever you need to cover the whole area. The water doesn’t need to be warm, and the chlorine isn’t the end of the world, but when I do this, I do let the water warm up to ambient temperature, and I do let it sit for 24 hours to dissipate the chlorine, because why not right? I do that even though I water it in afterwards with cold, non-chlorinated water, although ideally, I wait until it’s going to rain. Morning or evening also doesn’t matter much, as long as it gets watered in right away, but I prefer evening to give the spores a little more time to get down into the root zone before the sun is out.

  23. Dee on May 31, 2016 at 7:54 pm

    Hi Phil!Just placed my order with you. It was difficult deciding which products to go with considering I’m on a $100 budget. But I done research and finally made my decisions. Cannot wait to incorporate them in! What I’m wondering though, is if you have a certain legume inoculant that is your fav? Thank you for doing all this research and making this way of organic gardening easy to understand! You have totally changed my way of thinking about how to grow organically!!

    • Phil on June 2, 2016 at 3:04 pm

      Sorry Dee, I don’t have a fav legume inoculant. It’s definitely worthwhile to use, but I haven’t put much time into researching the options.

  24. sdb on June 9, 2016 at 12:28 am

    I’m planting 250 bare root Red raspberries spring 2017. I would like to mix the powder in a 5 gallon bucket of water, then dip the roots into the solution and let them soak as I’m planting. I wouldn’t let them soak more than 2 hours. What is the ratio of your mix and water in the 5 gallon bucket for 250 bare root Red Raspberry plants?

    • Phil on June 13, 2016 at 4:15 pm

      Sorry for the delay on this – I wanted to ask the producer of this inoculant. I know it would be easier to root dip, but I wouldn’t do it because the spores won’t stick to the roots very well. Instead, I would either sprinkle the powder onto the roots after you’re done soaking them or into the planting hole directly, or water the plants with a water-powder solution after planting. If you sprinkle, 1/2 teaspoon is a good amount for small bare-rooted plants, so 1 pound of the powder for 250 trees. If you water, mix 1 Tbsp of powder per gallon of water and apply 1 quart per plant, which would be 1.5 pounds of the powder for 250 trees. Hope that helps!

      • sdb on June 14, 2016 at 12:32 pm

        Thank you for your reply, Phil. If I were to apply a water-powder solution to the roots of the Raspberry canes, how much water and solution would you recommend? Would this be poured onto the roots or sprayed onto the roots? Thanks!

        • Phil on June 15, 2016 at 11:22 pm

          I’d much rather it be sprinkled on (I sometimes line up all the bare root balls together and just sprinkle them all at once, so it doesn’t take any time), but if you’d rather mix with water, I’d prefer spraying over pouring because pouring means it may go right past the roots. For spraying, the recommendation is usually 1 Tbsp per gallon of water, but in this case, I’d go more like 4 Tbsp per gallon and then apply about 1 cup of water per plant, so 1.5 pounds of inoculant in 15 gallons of water. Make sure the powder gets dissolved before going through the sprayer, perhaps in some warm (not too hot) water.

  25. Cajunbelle70663 on August 13, 2016 at 9:15 pm

    I grow orchids and recently purchased a terrestrial from a grower who mentioned he plants all of his terrestrials in a peat moss that is mychorrhizal inoculated to help prevent fungus. I called later and spoke to his associate who says they were unable to source the specific product they typically use. I am wondering if I could use your product with the sphagnum moss I have, mix it with perlite and achieve the same medium he was using. I’m also curious as to whether using some in my spray bottle for the other orchids would be beneficial or not. I did find this product online: Premier Tech PRO-MIX HP-CC Mycorrhizae High Porosity Growing Mix, 3.8 Cubic Feet. It is peat/coir based. Do you have any experience or know of anyone with orchid experience and mychorrizal inoculated medium? If I used your product, how much would I use with the moss &/or spray bottle.

    • Phil on August 15, 2016 at 11:16 am

      Orchids are one of the few species of plants that form relationships with different types of mycorrhizal fungi, not the ones I sell. I don’t know if they’re available commercially. Rhizoctonia is the most common fungal genus that associates with orchids, so you should search for that, although if possible, I would also search to see if there’s information on which species of fungi associate with your specific species of orchids. The Premier Tech product won’t work. Good luck!

  26. Ken on September 10, 2016 at 1:03 am

    If I took this product, tilled the soil to get ready for planting ( vegetable garden ), how much would I need to use and or would I add anything else needed ? Sick of in-store fertilizers that don’t seem to work

    • Phil on September 11, 2016 at 12:52 am

      How big is the area? How many plants do you plant? And do you sow seed?

  27. D. on December 9, 2016 at 2:49 am

    Sorry if this has already be addressed, but I am an commercial organic vegetable farmer on 8 acres. I would like to add this product to my potting mix for all of my transplanted crops with is 99% of them, but I have concerns about the tractor work we use for weeding of those crops, and if that will disrupt the mycorrhizae. Obviously we aren’t destroying the plants or their roots when using the tractor. Also, when the crop is finished and we till in the bed, how likely can there be a high survival rate of the fungi after two passes with the tractor? Thank you!

    • Phil on December 19, 2016 at 9:02 pm

      Sorry for the delay. The tractor implement for weeding shouldn’t disrupt the mycorrhizae much, if at all. The mycorrhizae will remain with the roots of the crops. As for tilling, there will be a lot of spores left in the soil even after tilling, but it’s difficult to estimate how the tilling will affect it. There certainly will be an effect but there may be enough in the bed to inoculate the next crop. That will always vary. Generally growers will add it again if they are tillingm but often at lower rates.

  28. Kent Smith on March 24, 2017 at 9:23 pm

    I have about 140 Black walnut saplings in the ground for 2-3 years. Some are doing very well but most are piddling along. I have emailed 2 other sites but for some reason get no response. How can I buy mycorrhizae for my plants?
    Kent

    • Phil on March 29, 2017 at 12:25 pm

      Hi Kent, you can buy the endo/ecto up above on this page. 1.5 pounds will be perfect. Mix the whole container with 35 gallons of water and water each tree’s root zone with 1 quart of that. You don’t need to get all of the roots of each tree – just some of them.

  29. John on March 27, 2017 at 1:48 pm

    When transplanting seedlings, they come out of a small container and I don’t typically break up the soil around the root ball if it’s not too bound up. Do I need to break up the root ball to apply the mycorrhizae? It is typically a 2″ x 2″ x 2″ ball. Do I just put a bit on any portion available? Do I need to cover the whole thing? Finally, I’m doing raised bed gardening using Mel’s mix 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 vermiculite. Since I’m not using my own soil, is it as important to use the mycorrhizae? I make my own compost and worm castings that I add whenever I plant something new. What are your thoughts about this?

    • Phil on March 29, 2017 at 3:35 pm

      Yes, you definitely want to use a mycorrhizal inoculant in Mel’s Mix, as the spores don’t multiply in compost (they need living plants on which to grow), so they very probably won’t be there. But no, you don’t need to break up the root ball, and you don’t need to cover the whole thing. Just a pinch on 1 side of each root ball will do.

      • John on March 29, 2017 at 3:46 pm

        That makes sense. I am wondering…this will need to be done yearly as most of the plants in a vegetable garden are annual. I am guessing that the fungi cannot survive from one season to another. I can also, yearly, coat the seed like you say in my transplant containers and they should be ready to go once I teansplant into the garden? Will the fungi do okay in the seedling container for the month-or-so they are indoors? Do you recommend anything else for the raised bed garden?

        • Phil on March 31, 2017 at 7:31 am

          Yes, although there may be some spores that overwinter in the soil, it’s best (and quite economical) to inoculants annual plants each year. And the fungi will be fine in the container. As for other recommendations, yes, I recommend everything I sell, but nothing specific for raised beds that would be different from regular beds. My top 3 for most people are usually the fungi, the EM/Bio Ag, and the liquid seaweed or sea minerals.

  30. nick on April 9, 2017 at 3:33 pm

    Is the mycorrhizal inoculant the same as (or better than) IBA (indolebutyric acid) to use as a rooting hormone when planting cuttings?

    • Phil on April 13, 2017 at 10:31 am

      I’ve never seen any comparison. They’re obviously very different, and both can be helpful.

  31. nick on April 9, 2017 at 4:53 pm

    1. I want to start some cuttings from my Japanese Maple, how would you do this? Since the cuttings have no roots how would you apply the Endomycorrhizal Fungi?
    2. I buy compost from our local county government by the dump truck load and grow peppers. My understanding is to treat just the transplants not the whole load of compost? Would there be an advantage to treating the whole 20 yards?
    3. I also have the Sea Minerals, Compost Tea, Basalt Rock Dust, Gypsum and ProBio Balance.

    • Phil on April 13, 2017 at 10:34 am

      1. You can put the powder on anyway, as the roots will come soon.
      2. No, it’s too expensive to treat the whole thing. Just treat the plants.
      3. You can treat the whole garden with these, as the roots will eventually spread everywhere.

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